fresh fig tart with lemon cream

Figs. Quite possibly the most beautiful edible fruit in existence. They are at their peak in Charlottesville, and I can't get enough of the soft globes that are actually inverted flowers (Did you know? I did not. Thanks, Megan!). We foraged for them over on Beyond the Flavor, joining our friend Daniel as he visited some of his favorite fig-gathering haunts around the city. Eagerly awaiting their arrival each September, I've been known to stake out trees on the University of Virginia grounds; faithfully driving by each day for weeks waiting for the green fruit to turn rosey, only to be foiled by a student who reached the trees an hour before us on the day they were finally ripe. The sight of his retreating form, bag of fresh figs full to bursting at his side, still saddens my heart. 

On Beyond the Flavor, we've asked our readers to submit their favorite fig recipes. (Like us on Facebook and submit your recipe here, if you've got a favorite to share. There's a prize for the winner!) While my preferred way to consume a fig is fresh, straight from the tree, I wanted to try something new for this little contest we're holding. I thought about a savory treat, but settled on sweet because, let's be honest, that's my area. 

A quick internet search resulted in this recipe, whose simplicity and un-touched figs caught my attention.  There were obstacles that stood in my way - a lack of sour cream in the refrigerator and an oven that broke in the middle of baking the crust - but I persevered and was able to share four pieces amongst friends. The firm crust with a cornmeal crunch paired nicely with soft, lemon-scented cream and the pop of tiny fig seeds between teeth. We four enjoyed it immensely, outside under the stars, while our friends' dog enjoyed the leftovers on the countertop in the kitchen upstairs. A disappointment, for sure, as I had at least one more piece earmarked for the next morning's breakfast. 

My craving not fully satisfied, I'll be making this tart again. As soon as we fix the oven.

Fresh Fig Tart with Rosemary Cornmeal Crust + Lemon Mascarpone Cream

modified from Gourmet, July 2003

serves 12

crust ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal (not stone-ground)
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 stick (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

filling ingredients

• 1/3 cup sour cream (I used Greek yogurt instead)
• 1 cup mascarpone cheese (8 oz)
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 lb fresh figs

crust method

1. Pulse together flour, cornmeal, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Add butter and rosemary and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal with some small (roughly pea-size) butter lumps. Drizzle evenly with 4 tablespoons ice water and pulse until just incorporated.
2. Gently squeeze a small handful: If it doesn't hold together, add more water, 1/2 tablespoon at a time, pulsing after each addition and continuing to test.
3. Press dough evenly onto bottom and up sides of tart pan with floured fingers. Smooth dough with a small offset metal spatula or back of a spoon (floured if necessary), then roll a rolling pin over top of pan to trim dough flush with rim. Chill crust until firm, about 30 minutes.

filling + assembly

1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
2. Bake crust in middle of oven until center and edges are golden, 25 to 30 minutes (don't worry if bottom of crust cracks), then cool in pan on a rack.
3. filling + assembly
4. Whisk together sour cream, mascarpone, sugar, zest, and salt in a bowl.
5. Remove side of tart pan and spread mascarpone cream in shell. Cut figs lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices and arrange decoratively over cream.

For those of you missing more regular Bella Eats posts, you really should hop over to Beyond the Flavor.  I am there more often than I am here, although I haven't given up on this little corner of the internet. I know I've said this before, many times, but I do hope to carve out more time to spend in this space I created nearly four (4!!!) years ago.  After all, it was the inspiration for everything I am doing today with food and photography, and I can't bear to see it fade away. Many thanks to all of you who stick around, comment, and poke me with emails to say hello. I appreciate each and every one of you.  xoxo.

lemon olive oil cake with apricots and rosemary

Brian and I have spent a total of maybe thirty nights apart since we were married six and a half years ago. We’ve racked up seventeen of those nights in the last seven months, since the beginning of 2012, and have another ten on the calendar for August and September. We’re each traveling for work more than ever before, being pulled to New York, Connecticut, Chicago, Florida, Philadelphia, New Orleans, and New Hampshire this year alone. 

An essential part of travel, for each of us, is the exploration of local food. Before we embark on a journey we ask friends, Facebook, and Twitter for restaurant recommendations. I look through the archives of Bon Appetit, Saveur, Gourmet, and The New York Times to see what I can find about the culinary scene. While visiting, Instagram is aflutter with food and drinks consumed. If we’re apart, iPhone photos are swapped between Brian and I; visual descriptions of whatever treats have been found both away and at home. We stay connected through the food we eat, never liking to spend a meal separately.

The best part, though, is the gifts given upon return. That little piece of an experience apart that lets the other know they weren’t really that far away at all. From New Orleans there was duck jerky from Butcher and, that one time, two pounds of sliced ham from Mother’s. From Florida, a special spice rub from 4Rivers BBQ. The exchange goes the other way, too, with the homemade pot roast awaiting my return from New York in February, or the whisper of a ‘fruit surprise’ in the kitchen just two weeks ago.

I’d returned early-ish on Sunday morning. Having photographed a wedding in northern Virginia with Sarah the night before, we’d each been anxious to get home to our husbands. An early departure with a quick stop at Starbucks had us back in Charlottesville by 10am, just in time for me to crawl in bed for the last 30 minutes of weekend snuggling with Brian and the pups. As we recapped our two nights apart, Brian rattled off the list of goodies he’d picked up at the farmers’ market the morning before. Excited to see my surprise, I padded out to the kitchen to investigate. And there sat the prettiest, rosiest apricots in my very favorite bowl.

Just the thought of Brian coming across those apricots at the market makes me smile, because I know that he would never have picked them up just for himself. No, he saw the pretty fruits and thought ‘Andrea would like to bake something with these.’ and whisked them away to our house where, two days later, they were the stars of this cake.

We adored this cake. Not too sweet (Brian's favorite kind) but bursting with the flavor of fresh apricots. The base has an almost poundcake-like consistency...dense and a bit spongey. The earthiness of the rosemary was the perfect compliment to the brightness of the fruit. Be sure to pick good apricots; they'll make all the difference.

Lemon Olive Oil Cake with Apricots and Rosemary

serves 8

adapted from Gourmet, April 2006

Ingredients

• 3/4 cup olive oil (extra-virgin if desired), plus additional for greasing pan
• 1 large lemon
• 1 tsp minced fresh rosemary
• 1 cup cake flour (not self-rising)
• 5 large eggs, separated, reserving 1 white for another use
• 3/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
• 10 fresh apricots, halved and pitted

Method

1. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch springform pan with some oil, then line the bottom with a round of parchment paper. Oil the parchment.
2. Finely grate enough lemon zest to measure 1-1/2 teaspoons and whisk together with flour. Add the chopped rosemary and whisk. Halve lemon, then squeeze and reserve 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice.
3. Beat together yolks and 1/2 cup sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at high speed until thick and pale, about 3 minutes. Reduce speed to medium and add olive oil (3/4 cup) and reserved lemon juice, beating until just combined (mixture may appear separated). Using a wooden spoon, stir in flour mixture (do not beat) until just combined.
4. Beat egg whites (from 4 eggs) with 1/2 teaspoon salt in another large bowl with cleaned beaters at medium-high speed until foamy, then add 1/4 cup sugar a little at a time, beating, and continue to beat until egg whites just hold soft peaks, about 3 minutes.
5. Gently fold one third of whites into yolk mixture to lighten, then fold in remaining whites gently but thoroughly.
6. Transfer batter to springform pan and gently rap against work surface once or twice to release any air bubbles. Place apricot halves in a decorative pattern across the top of the cake, cut-side up. Sprinkle top evenly with remaining 1-1/2 tablespoons sugar. Bake until puffed and golden and a wooden pick or skewer inserted in center of cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool cake in pan on a rack 10 minutes, then run a thin knife around edge of pan and remove side of pan. Cool cake to room temperature, about 1-1/4 hours. Remove bottom of pan and peel off parchment, then transfer cake to a serving plate.

blueberry lemon tartlets

There have been a lot of sweets around here lately. I would apologize, but this little blog is a glimpse into my kitchen and sweets are what I am craving these days. Ice cream. And popsicles. And tiny tartlets with fresh fruit mounded on top. Even though Summer has officially just arrived, here in Virginia you'd think she'd been around for at least the last month.  And when Summer lands firmly on our dry + crispy lawn I like for the food passing my lips to be cool and refreshing, laden with flavors of citrus and berry. Of course, there are salads abounding as well, but salads aren't nearly as much fun to photograph, write about, or share here in this space. Except that I've been slicing kumquats to sprinkle overtop of my spinach lately and that, my friends, is a really good idea. If you can find kumquats in your area I suggest you give it a try, I think you'll be pleased.

While you're out, pick up a few pints of fresh blueberries, and then hurry home to whip up these sweet little tartlets. The blueberries are such a nice accompaniment to the sharp tang of lemon curd nestled within the butter pastry. You'll only need one of those pints for this recipe, but if you're like me you won't be able to resist eating berries by the handful as you prep. 

Oh! And if you're in central Virginia, pick up the Summer issue of Flavor Magazine. Not only because Flavor is a wonderful resource for sustainable eating in the Capital Foodshed, but because you may just recognize a photograph in the Pairings section on page 79...!

Happy Summer, friends!

Chantilly cream is one of my great pleasures. I experienced it for the first time at K-Paul's in New Orleans when it was served with my cafe au lait, and I just about licked the bowl. Sprinkled with dried lavender, it is a lovely accompaniment to sweet blueberries. Add in the lemon curd and butter pastry and you've got quite the divine dessert.

I should also note that I've never, ever been able to achieve a non-shrinking tart or pie crust. This recipe is suggested by Joy of Cooking for tartlets specifically because the pastry is not supposed to shrink, but, mine still did. Apparently pastry dough and I just don't get along. I'm working on it.

Blueberry Lemon Tartlets with Chantilly Cream + Lavender

crust and curd recipes from The Joy of Cooking, chantilly cream recipe from Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen

makes (6) 4-inch tartlets, with some leftover lemon curd and chantilly cream (darn!)

Pastry

• 1 cup plus 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 1 tbsp white sugar or 2 tbsp powdered sugar
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 6 tbsp (3/4 stick) cold unsalted butter
• 3 oz cold cream cheese
• 2 to 3 tbsp cold heavy cream

Lemon Curd

• 1 cup sugar
• 8 tbsp unsalted butter (1 stick), cut into small pieces
• 8 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup strained fresh lemon juice (from 2 to 3 lemons)
• 1 tbsp grated lemon zest, plus more for garnish

Chantilly Cream

• 2/3 cup heavy cream
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp brandy
• 1 tsp Grand Marnier
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 2 tbsp dairy sour cream

Assembly

• 1 pint fresh blueberries
• 1 tsp dried lavender

Method

1. Place a medium-size bowl and beaters in the refrigerator, to be used for the chantilly cream.
2. To make the pastry, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Cut the butter and cream cheese into 1/4-inch pieces. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut the butter and cream cheese into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces. Drizzle the heavy cream over the mixture and cut in with the blade side of a rubber spatula, or stir with a fork until the dough begins to gather into moist clumps. Press the dough into a flat disk, wrap tightly in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
3. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough about 1/8 inch thick, then cut into rounds wide enough to cover the bottom and sides of your tartlet pans, with 1 to 1.5 inches extra dough to spare. Press the dough rounds into the pans, then fold the overhanging dough back on itself over the crust sides, doubling their thickness. Press the doubled dough firmly to seal, then thoroughly prick the sides and bottoms with a fork. Arrange the crusts on a baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
4. Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 400°F. Bake the crusts for 5 to 7 minutes, then prick the bottoms of any that have puffed. Continue to bake until the crusts are golden brown and firm to the touch, 12 to 15 minutes more.
5. For the lemon curd, preheat your oven to 350°F. Combine the sugar and butter in a heat proof bowl. Bring 1-inch of water to a bare simmer in a skillet, and set the bowl of sugar and butter in the skillet. Stir until the butter is melted, and remove the bowl from the skillet. Add the egg yolks and beat until no yellow streaks remain. Stir in the lemon juice and return the bowl to the skillet. Heat the mixture over medium heat, stirring gently until it thickens to the consistency of heavy cream and lightly coats a spoon, 6 to 8 minutes. Strain the lemon mixture through a clean fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, then stir in the lemon zest.
6. Pour the filling into the tart crusts. Bake the tartlets until the center looks set but still very quivery, like gelatin, when the pan is nudged, for 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack.
7. Meanwhile, make the chantilly cream. Combine the cream, vanilla, brandy, and Grand Marnier in the chilled bowl and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed for 1 minute. Add the sugar and sour cream and beat on medium just until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. Do no overbeat!!!
8. To assemble, pile blueberries on top of each tartlet. Add a generous dollop of chantilly cream and sprinkle with fresh lavender and lemon zest.
9. If you make the tarts ahead, lightly oil sheets of plastic wrap and press directly on the filling in each tartlet. They can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 day. Dress with blueberries and chantilly cream when ready to serve.

lemon-drenched lemon cakes

Today I made and re-photographed this Lemon Drenched Lemon Cake for a project I am working on with Retail Relay. Also, for a dinner party Brian and I are going to tonight. Except this time, I am topping it with Blackberry Compote. MmmHmm...

Happy Weekend, Everyone!

This recipe makes 2 cakes.  After reading some comments from Joy's readers I would not recommend trying to bake this cake in any pan other than loaf pans.  Also, I used ALL of the syrup.  I just kept brushing layer upon layer of syrup over the tops of the cakes, allowing each application to soak in before adding another.  And, when there was just a bit left in the bowl, I poured it onto the serving plate and plopped the cakes right on top of it, allowing the bottoms to soak it up and get nice and lemon-y.  If you're not a lemon fanatic like me, you might want to only use 1/2 the syrup.

Lemon Drenched Lemon Cakes

Recipe adapted from Dorie Greenspan via Joy the Baker.  Be sure to check out the lovely pictures of this cake on Joy's site, since I was a bit of a slacker and didn't get many...

Cake:

• 2-2/3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2-1/2 tsp baking powder
• pinch of salt
• 2-1/3 cups sugar
• 1-1/2 tsp vanilla
• 6 large eggs, preferably at room temperature
• 2/3 cup heavy cream
• zest of 2 lemons, finely grated
• 1 stick, plus 7 tbsp unsalted butter (15 tbsp total), melted and cooled

Syrup:

• 1/3 cup water
• 1/4 cup sugar
• juice of two lemons

Method:

1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two 9x5-inch loaf pans, dust the insides with flour and tap out the excess. Even if the pans are nonstick, it’s a good idea to butter and flour them.
2. Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt.
3. Put the sugar and the lemon zest in a large bowl, working with your fingers, rub them together until the sugar is moist and thoroughly imbued with the fragrance of lemon.
4. Add the eggs and whisk them into the sugar, beating until they are thoroughly incorporated. Whisk in the extract, then whisk in the cream. Continuing with the whisk, or switching to a large rubber spatula, gently stir in the dry ingredients in 3 or 4 additions; the batter will be smooth and thick. Finish by folding in the melted butter in 2 or 3 additions. Pour the batter into the pans, smoothing with a rubber spatula.
5. Bake for 55 to 60 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean. As soon as the cake goes into the oven, make the syrup. After about 30 minutes in the oven, check the cakes for color- if they are browning too quickly, cover them lightly with foil tents.
6. Stir the water and sugar together in a medium saucepan over medium heat until the sugar melts, then bring to a boil. Remove the pan from heat and stir in the lemon juice. Pour the syrup into a heatproof bowl and let cool.
7. When the cakes test done, transfer them to a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes before unmolding them and turning them right side up on the rack. Place the rack over a baking sheet lined with wax paper and, using a thin skewer, cake tester or thin-bladed sharp knife, poke holes all over the cakes. Brush the cakes all over with the syrup, working slowly so that the cakes sop it up. Leave the cakes on the rack to cool to room temperature.

Blackberry Compote

Ingredients:

• 3 cups fresh or frozen blackberries
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 cinnamon stick

Method:

Place all ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a strong simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until compote has thickened and reduced. Allow to cool, and serve over slices of cake.